文化藝術人物 / Cultural figure

朴若木

大字係領域(由已登記職業/領域派生),唔係姓氏。

Pan Lai

1959年–2024年

領域:藝術家

繁體中文

朴若木(Pan Lai),1959年出生,2024年12月25日喺北京離世,係香港電影美術指導、服裝指導同監製。佢本為光學公司職員,經攝影師馮建中引介投身影圈,先後為許鞍華嘅《投奔怒海》(1982)同區丁平嘅《花城》(1983)拍攝劇照。1984年佢任《傾城之戀》美術助理,正式展開電影美術工作,並與區丁平一同提名第四屆香港電影金像獎最佳美術指導。1987年佢為關錦鵬嘅《胭脂扣》(1988)任美術指導,兼負責服裝同化妝造型設計,與馬光榮奪得第二十四屆金馬獎最佳美術設計。此後佢同關錦鵬多番合作,屢獲電影獎項:憑《人在紐約》(1990)奪第二十六屆金馬獎最佳造型設計(服裝設計);憑《阮玲玉》(1992)獲第十二屆香港電影金像獎最佳美術指導;憑《紅玫瑰白玫瑰》(1994)喺第三十一屆金馬獎連奪最佳美術設計同最佳造型設計兩項大獎。佢堅持只拍藝術片、不拍商業片,1994年一度淡出電影界,改到香港城市大學任教。近三十年作品不多,較常同內地演員兼導演陳沖合作,在《天浴》(1998)、《世間有她》(2022)及待上映嘅《英格力士》(兼任監製)擔任藝術指導。其代表作則為李安執導嘅《色,戒》(2007),獲提名第六十一屆英國電影學院獎最佳服裝設計,並摘下第四十四屆金馬獎最佳造型設計(與呂鳳珊共同獲得)。佢嘅造型同美術設計,被視為梅艷芳、張曼玉、湯唯等人塑造經典角色嘅重要一環。佢為以三十年代上海影壇為背景嘅《阮玲玉》重構當時嘅服裝同場景,力求還原時代質感。

English

Pan Lai (1959–2024) was a Hong Kong art director, costume designer and executive producer. He began as an employee of an optical company and entered films through the cinematographer Fung Kin-chung, first shooting stills for Ann Hui's Boat People (1982) and Tony Au's The Last Affair (1983). In 1984 he was art assistant on Love in a Fallen City, formally launching his career in film art, and was nominated with Tony Au for the 4th Hong Kong Film Awards for best art direction. In 1987 he served as art director on Stanley Kwan's Rouge (1988), also designing its costumes and make-up, and shared the 24th Golden Horse Award for best art design with Ma Kwong-wing. His repeated collaborations with Kwan brought further prizes: best make-up and costume design at the 26th Golden Horse Awards for Full Moon in New York (1990), best art direction at the 12th Hong Kong Film Awards for Centre Stage (1992), and both best art design and best make-up and costume design at the 31st Golden Horse Awards for Red Rose White Rose (1994). Insisting on art-house work over commercial films, he withdrew from cinema in 1994 to teach at the City University of Hong Kong. He shot few films in the following three decades, often working with the actress-director Joan Chen as art director on Xiu Xiu: The Sent-Down Girl (1998) and the 2022 release known in English as Hero, and on a still-unreleased feature he also produced. His best-known credit is Ang Lee's Lust, Caution (2007), nominated for best costume design at the 61st BAFTA Awards and winner of best make-up and costume design at the 44th Golden Horse Awards (shared with Lui Fung Shan). His distinctive aesthetic is credited with helping Anita Mui, Maggie Cheung and Tang Wei to their iconic screen roles. He died in Beijing on 25 December 2024.

人物小檔 Profile

職業Occupation

美術指導、服裝指導、監製

年期Active period

1959年–2024年

代表作Notable works

《胭脂扣》(1988)、《阮玲玉》(1992)、《色,戒》(2007)

獎項及榮譽Awards & honours

第24屆金馬獎最佳美術設計(《胭脂扣》)、第12屆香港電影金像獎最佳美術指導(《阮玲玉》)、第44屆金馬獎最佳造型設計(《色,戒》)

資料整理日期 / Compiled: 2026-10-14

主要成就 Key Achievements

1988

憑《胭脂扣》與馬光榮奪第24屆金馬獎最佳美術設計

Won best art design at the 24th Golden Horse Awards for Rouge, shared with Ma Kwong-wing

1992

憑《阮玲玉》奪第12屆香港電影金像獎最佳美術指導

Won best art direction at the 12th Hong Kong Film Awards for Centre Stage

2007

憑《色,戒》奪第44屆金馬獎最佳造型設計

Won best make-up and costume design at the 44th Golden Horse Awards for Lust, Caution

影響與傳承 Impact & Legacy

繁體中文

朴若木以考究嘅年代質感同克制美學,為《胭脂扣》、《阮玲玉》、《色,戒》等片塑造出強烈視覺印記;其造型設計被視為成就多位華語影后嘅重要一環,係香港電影美術領域嘅代表人物。

English

Through an exacting period sensibility and restrained aesthetic, Pan Lai gave films such as Rouge, Centre Stage and Lust, Caution a strong visual signature, and his costume and art design is regarded as central to the screen images of several leading Chinese-language actresses.

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